The next leg of our journey was to the city of Udaipur. Known as the City of Lakes or Venice of the east, the city of Udaipur sits upon several manmade lakes. This made it the most unique of the cities in Rajasthan and thus was our family’s choice of city to visit within Rajasthan.
Day 1:
Upon arrival, we were greeted by our tour guide, Vishal Bali. A travelling man himself, he met with us on his way back from his own 60-day adventure in Nepal to his home in Jodhpur.
Rajsthali Arts
Our first day started us off at Rajsthali Arts, a crafts store that specializes in textiles. As, the state of Rajasthan is famous for its textiles, with each of its cities having their own specialty.
Here we were able to find anything from pillowcases to table runners. The colours were so vibrant it was amazing.
Our next destination was the old city of Udaipur. Originally founded in 1558, a time long before cars. The old city’s streets are too narrow and winding for our tour van was not able to navigate. Instead, we took a tuk-tuk to our first stop in the old city.
Janak Arts
Our first stop was Janak Arts. An artist’s enclave in the middle of the old city. Here we would learn about the traditional Mugal art of miniature painting. This form of painting dating back to the 16th century, where artists would use it to capture the daily lives of the royal family.
Using brushes is made from things like the eyelashes of a camel, to create super fine details and special dyes from local sources, the artists are able to create brilliant works of art.
Old City Udaipur
We then walked through the old city towards Lake Pichola, the oldest and most famous lake which, predates the city by almost 200 years, being created in 1362.
Located in the middle of the Aravalli Mountain Range, Udaipur’s terrain is quite rugged, be prepared for a hike.
Rainbow Restaurant
When we arrived at the lake we booked a sunset cruise on Lake Pichola for later that evening. Until then the group had some free time to explore the old city. We opted to stay at the Rainbow Restaurant, a rooftop restaurant with an amazing view, to get some rest, as the walk there had been tough.
Boat Cruise on Lake Pichola
Our sunset boat cruise was absolutely amazing. As we departed, the setting sun’s glowy hues bathed the old city. As the sun came down the Lake Palace and Jag Mandir lit their lights to prepare for the night.
Eventually, we came to a rest with a small group of other boats, near The Oberoi hotel.
As we sat in silence as the last of the sunset behind the mountains. It was quite a magical experience.
As we headed back in, the entire city had lit up and was so beautiful, especially with the lights reflecting off the water.
We even passed a group of kids who had decided to take a swim in the evening.
Restaurant Ambrai
Once docked, we headed out for our dinner. Which was about a 15-minute walk, through the old city which and over the Daiji bridge.
Our destination, Restaurant Ambrai, a restaurant located on grounds of the historical Amet Haveli. A beautiful palace built in 1752 on the banks of Lake Pichola, by the same builders of the City and Lake palace. Definitely a recommended visit.
The prices are a bit high and there are 3 taxes. City, state and tourist tax, but the patio has one of the most amazing views of the Lake Palace, Old City and City Palace.
Especially with them lit up at night, reflecting on the water. Definitely one of the highlights of the trip.
Day 2:
Our second day was a day trip to the Ranakpur Jain Temple. One of the largest and top 5 holiest Jain temples in India, located about 3 hours drive from the hotel. As we drove out of Udaipur to the smaller villages, we made one quick stop. Vishal wanted to show us something simple, but quite interesting.
Persian wheel wells
Off to the side of the road was an old-style irrigation system. Being closer to groundwater, there are many open wells in the area. This particular well being a Persian wheel. A system where an ox was used to power a chain of pots that fetched the water and brought it up for distribution. Just as they’ve done it for many centuries.
Aravalli mountains
Being located in the heart of the Aravalli mountains, the road to Ranakpur was both breathtaking and heart-pounding. Our driver would zip up and down mountains, on what felt like roads made for one vehicle. Yet when other vehicles would come from the other direction, we’d pass them without ever slowing down.
As we approached the Ranakpur temple, we noticed many monkeys lining the road. This, Vishal explained, was because Ranakpur is located on a nature reserve. So, there are, not only, a lot of monkeys around, but jaguars, hyenas and soon a tiger.
Ranakpur Jain temple
Built-in the 15th century, when a local Jain businessman had a divine vision of the temple. Ranakpur is dedicated to Adinath, the first Jain.
Elegantly coming out of the hill behind, Ranakpur was built using Māru-Gurjara architecture, known for its intricate carvings and extravagant features.
Constructed entirely of white marble, the temple covers 48,000 sqft, with 80 domes held up by 1444 marble pillars, each one uniquely carved with amazing craftsmanship.
Walking through the temple feels almost dreamlike, with its wide-open spaces and amazing detail in all its carvings.
Including a 600-year-old Tree of Life, that the temple was built around to represent the interdependence of nature and one’s self.
Monsoon Palace
Our next scheduled destination was to the Monsoon Palace. A structure built by Maharana Sajjan Singh in 1884 to watch the clouds during monsoon season.
1559 Haveli
As many of us were still tired from the wedding, we decided to head back to the hotel a bit earlier to rest up and make a dinner reservation at 1559, a beautiful restaurant built out of a converted Haveli.
Day 3:
Udaipur City Palace
On our third and final day, we went to our last destination, the Udaipur City Palace. Located up above the Old City, with an amazing view of Lake Pichola, the Lake Palace, Aravalli Mountains and Monsoon Palace in the distance.
The City Palace was built over 400 years, starting with Maharana Udai Singh II, who the city of Udaipur is named. Then added to by each of the 22 successive Maharanas up to 1949, when Bhupal Singh signed the declaration to join India.
The palace is now a museum dedicated to the Kingdom of Mewar. One of the world’s longest unbroken dynasties. dating back from 734 AD, long before Udaipur, to the present day.
As we walk through the labyrinth of corridors from section to section, it is very interesting to see what each Maharana would add to the palace through the ages. From wars and treaties with Mughals, to eventually trade with the West and the British.
The palace is a beautiful mosaic of colour and architecture. Paintings ranging from wall-size murals to miniature paintings showing the Maharana’s precession and accent to the throne.
Wide-open courtyards with swimming pools to rooms beautifully decorated with vibrant pieces of glass and mirrors. There is so much to see and do in the palace. I really wish we had more time.
Though mostly a museum about the Mewar Kingdom. The Palace is still home to the current Maharana and his 3 children. One of which Vishal pointed out, was walking through the palace courtyard, wearing a tracksuit, looking like an average Singh.
I wouldn’t have believed him if it wasn’t for the 4 bodyguards, who casually walked with him in formation, everywhere he went. These days the Maraharanas act as custodians to the house of Mewar and run a chain of hotels that allow guests to experience how it felt to live like a Mewar Maharana. Rooms are available at either the Lake or City Palace for only a thousand dollars.
Vishal started his tour with us mentioning one of Udaipur’s claims to fame. Staring in the 1983 Bond film Octopussy.
I can see why Udaipur was chosen to be the backdrop to James Bond’s Octopussy, with a palace for every season, an amazing lakeside Old City and beautiful temples. Udaipur was one of my favourite destinations. My only regret is that we did not spend any longer there.